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myceliaman
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01/20/2024 09:14AM  
We have two beautiful trips planned for 2024, but being the consummate planner, I'm trying to get a trip ready for Isle Royale in 2025. It's been on the old bucket list.

Any info or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
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01/20/2024 09:41AM  
My wife and I were there maybe 15 years ago. We took a boat out of Copper Harbor, MI, and stayed at the Rock Harbor Lodge for a few days (she is not a camper). We hiked a lot around the northeastern fourth of the island (i.e. day hikes), and rented a canoe to explore Tobin Harbor. There is a lot to see and do even in and around Rock Harbor.

If we were to do it again, I'd want to take a float plane to get there.
 
01/20/2024 09:54AM  
I went to IR in 2015 with a buddy the year I retired. We canoed an interior route and had a good time.

The trip planning was fun. And we visited the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest lake. And caught some nice lake trout. Michigan fishing license is required when fishing in Lake Superior waters. No license is needed to fish inland lakes and streams, but Michigan size and possession limits apply and only artificial lures are allowed.

A backcountry permit is required when staying overnight, at a campground, dock, or at anchor. Permits are issued on board the Ranger III and at the Rock Harbor and Windigo Visitor Centers. Camping for parties of 6 or less is on a first-come, first-served basis and sites cannot be reserved. Canoe only sites are limited to two nights stay, for parties of six or less. The entire shore of Lake Whittlesey, Wood Lake, Intermediate Lake and Siskiwit Lake, and designated zones along Lake Superior, are open to camping with a one night stay limit per location. Camping on offshore islands is limited to designated campsites. Groups (7-10 people) must stay at designated “group campsites”, and must get backcountry permits in advance. Shoreline camping is not open to groups.

We departed Copper Harbor on the Isle Royale Queen IV to Rock Harbor, then took a water taxi to Malone Bay. The taxi driver was the strong silent type until I started chatting him up a bit and got some tips on our route. Our route was Wood Lake, Siskiwit, Whittlesey, to Copper Harbor. Six days later, we were early and bumped into our taxi driver at the dock. "Hey boys! I can take you back early." We loaded up and he motored out to Lake Superior. "Get out your rods", he said and we spent the rest of the morning catching lake trout before heading back to Rock Harbor.

It was a great trip!



 
KawnipiKid
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01/22/2024 10:17AM  
Hi myceliaman,

The advice you've already received is solid; there's lots to do backpacking, exploring out from Rock Harbor Lodge for day trips, paddling and more. It's a magical place.

Not sure if you plan to paddle/take your own boat(s) out or not. If yes, don’t plan on any unprotected/open Lake Superior stretches unless you are in and very experienced with sea kayaks. Tooling around Tobin Harbor, Duncan Bay, etc. is fine in canoes many days but plan carefully and use the well-known routes on protected water and inland lakes. I spent several summers on the Isle and have been there 25+ times since the late 70s. I will not, for example, go around Blake’s Point even in a fishing boat with 25HP motor except on a bluebird day knowing the weather coming and being prepared to hunker down if it’s too dicey getting back. I've gone with someone who knows the reefs and shoals and has radar and in his Lake Superior sea-worthy fishing rig, but that's my minimum for big open water.

Besides float plane service, there are three boats to choose from, each with pluses and minuses. All three transport canoes and kayaks. The Ranger III is the large (165 ft) NPS boat from Houghton Michigan to Rock Harbor. It’s enjoyable but slow. It goes out Tues and Friday (back on Wed and Sat) and and takes from something like 9 am eastern to 3 pm one-way. The Ranger III will also take a small fishing boat and motor out but check well in advance on this. It requires them lifting your rig by crane and putting it in a cradle on the Ranger's bow deck.

The Isle Royale Queen is the fastest boat from the UP. It departs Copper Harbor at 8 eastern to Rock Harbor, takes a break at Rock Harbor, and then returns leaving the Isle at 2:30 or so eastern. It's generally not too bad a ride but can pitch and roll in seas over 3-4 feet. It is affectionately known to regulars as the "barf barge." The drive to Copper is scenic but obviously longer and almost everyone stays overnight before in Copper (fun in its own right). Don’t forget the eastern time change. For my first IRNP trip in 1979, I stayed in Houghton, drove up early (I thought) and arrived at the dock as she disappeared from view, perplexed as to why she left an hour early.

The Voyageur II is the coolest trip in my mind; a small (65’) boat taking mail, passengers and canoes/kayaks out from Grand Portage, MN. It does three 2-day round trip cycles weekly (off Fridays). It stops and both ends of the Isle (Windigo first on the way out, then stops along the north shore and on to Rock Harbor arriving late in the afternoon to overnight. It comes back along the south shore making stops and checking in at Windigo again for a last stop before heading home to GP.

The Voyageur is, in my opinion, the best for paddlers (and a great way to see the whole Isle from a boat). You can arrange a drop off and pick-up mid island (e.g., McCargoe Cove) or start and finish a trip at different locations.

For any boat or sea plane, make reservations early. My kids report the it's been booked up earlier and earlier in recent years, especially the Queen.

I have always backpacked (early years) or stayed in and around Rock and Tobin Harbor. I've paddled a bunch and used small boats around Tobin and Rock Harbor but have not done any overnight paddling trips. Others will have much better intel on the water routes for paddlers. Glad you are planning this! Cheers.
 
01/22/2024 12:16PM  
It's definitely worth the trip, we have it in our 2025 plans as well. I may be a bit biased, but Isle Royale is my favorite national park. Our tripping group routinely went to Isle Royale before mixing in Boundary Waters Trips. I cannot offer any advice regarding the Rock Harbor Lodge as I have never stayed there, but hiking and camping throughout the island is very manageable in my opinion as the campground areas are well spaced. It is similar to the BWCA wilderness regarding self-sufficiency and following the national park's guidelines. Most days you can make as easy or difficult as you like depending on how far and how many days you have to spend. The trails themselves are well maintained and easy to follow unless hitting the backcountry. There are a few campground areas on the busier side, but I've never found it difficult to find solitude. In my experiences moose sightings have been fairly frequent, running into multiple during each visit.

As others have noted, book early once you know your dates regardless of transportation method. If you're planning to bring canoes/extra gear, make sure to specify when booking the ferry pass as there's additional fees for the weight. Note the ferry schedule and pickup times depending on your location as well if staying multiple days. Isle Royale hiking distance chart is very helpful for planning and using while on the Island.

Have a great Trip!



 
Jackfish
Moderator
  
01/22/2024 02:20PM  
I've been to Isle Royale three times. The first was as a kid in 1974 where we brought a smaller motorboat across from Houghton on the Ranger and explored the eastern end of the island from Chippewa Harbor around the point to McCargo Cove. That trip started a lifelong love affair with IR.

The second was with my son and our Scout Troop in 2003 where we backpacked from Rock Harbor to Moskey Basin and back with some day trips mixed in. We took the ferry out of Copper Harbor.

The third trip was with my wife in 2013. We backpacked the length of the island from Rock Harbor to Windigo, hiking mostly down the Greenstone Trail. We flew from Houghton to Rock Harbor (landed in Tobin Harbor) on the float plane, then they picked us up at Windigo six days later. A very rewarding trip that my wife and I still talk about.

I consider Isle Royale as great of an outdoor experience as the BW or Quetico and it makes me smile just thinking of others going there to experience it for the first time. There is a lot of good information in this thread, but if you need any further information, please don't hesitate to ask.
 
chessie
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01/22/2024 06:23PM  
I've been to the island three times and happy visit about it at length! It's worth the trip. I went solo in 1989 after I got out of the service. I went in late October and what the heck was I thinking? It was COLD at night, and not a lot of daylight. However, moose numbers were high that year and I think I counted 15 all told. I hiked the Greenstone Ridge, and spent some time at Washington Harbor.
I went back with my sister in the mid 90s; we took the first boat over in May (again, what was I thinking? It was cold, snow on the ground, and interior lakes still iced over). We did the Feldtmann Loop in and out of Windigo. I went back about a decade ago, this time in August (smart). We got dropped at McCargo Cove, and did my bucket list hike, the Minong Ridge. Berries were ripe, weather was good. Read what you can, and I'll add, while it's not mountains [so not contending w/ altitude], the trails are rugged to some degree, AND, often there is a hefty hike from the trail to the designated campsite, so need to plan regarding water. That's a big difference from BW trips - water access.

As one of my Ely friends is fond of saying: "It's one long portage!" :)
 
01/22/2024 06:36PM  
I have been there twice, backpacking both times, 1974 and again in 1978. Can’t add much to what has already been reported. But I would very much recommend a trip there. On both trips we took the Isle Royale Queen from from Copper Harbor MI. Both times coming back we encountered rough seas. It seemed to me the captain ran a straight compass course which made ride rougher than it needed to be. I ran into the former captain/owner of the Queen maybe 10 years ago and he told me his sons had taken over the business and purchased a new larger boat so the ride should be better.
 
01/22/2024 07:35PM  

My wife and I have backpacked this pristine wilderness national park on six occasions. A true backpackers paradise. Home to the longest running predator/prey study (Moose and wolves). Starting way back in 1958. I suggest you get a copy of the Greenstone Newspaper provided by the National Park Service that provides you with ferry schedules, camping guidelines, and other important information to help you in trip planning.

Over the years we have hiked virtually the entire island and regard it as one of the best wilderness areas we have ever explored. Go for it! You won't be disappointed.
 
LaVirginienne
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01/22/2024 08:12PM  
I took the ferry from Minnesota and hiked the Minong Ridge trail south over three days about 6-7 years ago. It’s a lovely hike of medium difficulty with an iconic view of the Sleeping Giant across Lake Superior and nice places to camp. There are a few broad exposed slabby sections along this route that could be challenging to cross when wet. The narrow two-plank boardwalk at the end was pretty sketchy. Good balance required. In spots one of the planks was missing for a dozen yards or more. Spent the last night in a screened lean-to as I recall.

Since I made that trip, wolves have been reintroduced to the island.
 
01/22/2024 09:10PM  
Lots of good info here. It's the least visited and most returned National Park (at least that's what I've read). I did a trip about 10 years back, in from Grand Portage to McCargoe Bay , to Chippewa Harbor, out from Daisy Farm. I had to pull up short because I packed too much weight and got hiker's knee. The trails were full of rocks, roots, and mud so be prepared for lots of slip/trip potential. The wildlife was amazing and finding ancient copper mine pits was incredible. I bushwacked into angleworm for some good fishing. The views from the Greenstone Ridge trail were fantastic. Can't wait to get back there (with less gear).
 
Savage Voyageur
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01/23/2024 09:32AM  
I was on a backpacking trip years ago there. What an adventure for sure. We took the ferry from Grand Portage, left our cars in a fenced area there. Landed at Washington Harbor and had to sit through the movie and ranger talk about the island. We had 7 days for the trip, two were for travel days, that left us with 5 days hiking. We hiked the Feldmann ridge to Siskiwit bay, then to island mine, then hooked up with the Greenstone ridge and back. I lost track of how many moose we saw, they were everywhere. It was the perfect hike for us. My advice to you would be to get a good water filter that is the pump style. Also get a good set of broke in boots. Bring a repair kit to fix any broken or tore seams on packs or gear. A sail needle and braided fishing line works the best for this. We had 2 gear failures on the trip that needed repair. I brought way too much gear, heavy gear. Try to use light gear if you can. Bring plenty of water with you at all times. Getting water can be a challenge on the island.
 
boundarywatersguy57
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01/23/2024 02:09PM  
I’ve been there a number of times, backpacking and fishing.
I’m a cartographer and made a detailed waterproof award winning map of the island. It is the only map that has all the details for each campground.
MyrmelMaps.com
 
bpaddle
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01/23/2024 03:14PM  
This is a great and timely thread, as I am in the process of planning a trip this year for my wife and me to backpack from Windigo to Rock Harbor over about 6 or 7 days, taking the Greenstone trail route. My main concerns were about the best time of year to go to avoid the algae blooms on the interior lakes, and just the water source issues in general. Is it necessary to carry an additional day's worth of water with you when you are planning to camp at a water challenged site? I know you can call the IR rangers to find out about the algae blooms as the trip gets closer, but with the need to make plans so far out now I was wondering what would be the best time to go to try to avoid that situation. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Jackfish
Moderator
  
01/23/2024 03:36PM  
bpaddle: "This is a great and timely thread, as I am in the process of planning a trip this year for my wife and me to backpack from Windigo to Rock Harbor over about 6 or 7 days, taking the Greenstone trail route. "

If I may offer a suggestion, you might consider hiking from Rock Harbor to Windigo instead of Windigo to Rock Harbor. It's certainly doable both ways, but coming out of Windigo with full packs, you'll be encountering a long, gradual and steady climb for maybe 3-4 miles until the trail levels off a bit.

I remember thinking about it when we were on our way DOWN the gradual slope from the ridge to Windigo and being glad that we weren't going the other way.

Food for thought...
 
OCDave
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01/23/2024 06:26PM  
Isle Royale is like a college girlfriend - great memories. Really fun when I was young, energetic and just learning....backpacking and backcountry camping and stuff. ;) I am a little concerned I'd no longer have enough vigor to go back.

I have visited Isle Royale five times, but haven't been back for about ten years. I actually did take a girlfriend hiking across Isle Royale way back when. We packed too heavy, she cried at least once every day. A "few" years later, I took the same girl back again. On that trip, we included our two sons, ages 12 and 15 at the time. Less weight, less crying, more fun.

The BWCA allows for more solitude than Isle Royale. The campsites on Isle Royale are grouped together so it is a bit more of a social experience. Additionally, there are a limited number of trails so you will pass other hikers several times each day.

Isle Royale is in the middle of Lake Superior so temps and weather can change abruptly. I've never been too hot on the island, but I've been colder than I'd like.

The are no bears to eat your berries! Plan a visit in late July or August and you can feast on blueberries and thimbleberries (though go easy on the thimbleberries or you yourself may go too easy....laxative effect). My kids picked and filled liter sized Smartwater bottles full of blueberries daily during our hikes. The thimbleberries are rare enough they get eaten as they are found.

The Voyager II can pick you up and drop you off if you want to cut down hiking distance (the boat circumnavigates the island clockwise only). A water taxi can also do the same, but at a significantly higher cost.

Bring your toilet paper. There are outhouses at each campground, but never any TP.

Bring your camera. Lots of wildlife photography opportunities especially Moose and Camp fox.

If departing from Rock Harbor, rent a cabin or room in the lodge for your final night. Enjoy a shower and a meal at the Rock Harbor Lodge. Some Visitors spend their entire visit at the lodge but there's too much to see to be stuck at one end of the island.

Enjoy you planning.


 
01/24/2024 08:35AM  

A little history, the island first appeared around 11,000 years ago when the glaciers were melting. The island soon became inhabitable for a number of mammals, reptiles, and amphibians even though some animals like bear, deer, and raccoons have never made the journey to this day.

Native Americans mined the island for copper around 2000 B.C. which attracted French Explorers who mapped the area and assigned the name Isle Royale. Historians disagree on whether Ben Franklin negotiated U.S. rights in the 1783 Treaty of Paris or if the island became a U.S. territory due to a map makers error. The state of Michigan was given control of Isle Royale when Michigan became part of the Union in 1837 even though Isle Royale is directly north of Wisconsin and even closer to Minnesota.

There were several well financed copper mining efforts but no sustainable amounts were ever located. Commercial fishing proved profitable until a sea lamprey infestation around 1952 made commercial fishing pointless. President Franklin Roosevelt established Isle Royale as a national park on April 3, 1940.
 
01/24/2024 10:36AM  
 
01/24/2024 04:40PM  
I was there in the late 1960s.
First time I ever saw a wild moose.
 
01/30/2024 07:19AM  
My wife and I were there once about five years ago. We took the boat out of Grand Portage and stopped at Windigo. We stayed at the Washington Creek camp and did three nights the first week of June. It did get below freezing. It was a wet and cold trip but did have two dry hiking days. We got about thirty miles in doing a few different loops out of Windigo.

Good moose viewing at Washington Creek and were able to see one while on one hike. Did not see any wolves.

Being that we were there right at the beginning of the season, there was hardly anyone else around and really did not see anyone while we were out hiking. We loved the isolation and remoteness. You must be prepared for "no help" so being smart and making sound decisions is very important.

Enjoy the island, you might get addicted.
 
LesliesDad
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01/31/2024 02:02PM  
We were there June 7-9, 1999. Stayed at the Rock Harbor Lodge. Took a long day hike along the Greenstone Ridge one day, and a boat tour the other. It was very nice.
We got there on the Isle Royale Queen III out of Copper Harbor. The crew said that the waves were 6-8 feet, the roughest crossing that they had had all season. I think they were more like 8-10 feet. It made my crossing of the North Atlantic on a DDG back in 1972 seem like a kiddie park ride. My wife spent all 4-hours puking over the railing on the fantail. Other than that it was fun.
 
bwcamjh
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02/02/2024 01:40PM  
Was on Isle Royale about 30 years ago now. Late May, just as they opened. Still some snow/ice on the rocks on the shore. I think it was a seven day trip. Took the ferry out of Grand Portage. Got off at Windigo and did the loop around Siskiwit Bay and then the loop around to Huginnin Cove. Good memorable time.

Was a winter of a large moose die off. We investigated the first stench of a carcass but after a while we passed them up. Some other live moose were seen for sure along with some fox and early migrant birds.

I was just in Houghton, MI this past Mon, Tue, Wed. Stayed at the hotel right across the street from the park headquarters. Boat was in dock.

 
woodsandwater
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02/02/2024 02:02PM  
I have 2500 miles logged in backpacking there since I started when I was 15 in 1972. I'm 66 now. I have paddled on a trip there once around six years ago but wouldn't do it again.
 
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