Looking into a Yakima/Thule Canoe rack.
I'm currently only concerned about the REAR support, as I will likely DIY or purchase the Spring Creek Suction cup rack for the front bar.

Here is what I have been considering.
Thule 997 GoalPost
Thule 997 - Goalpost Demonstrated by Rack Outfitters
Disadvantages
- doesn't appear that you can drop the tailgate when GoalPost is attached.
- Looks like it has a little play, even when full tightened
- How wide of a load bar do I need to hold 2 canoes?
- Is the standard 58" (that comes with the goal post wide enough for 2 canoes?
- Has anyone hauled 2 canoes with their GoalPost rack?

Yakima Outdoorsman 300 (Full Size)
Yakima Outdoorsman 300 (Full Size) - Demonstrated by Rack Warehouse
- I like this more because it allows tailgate use, and it tightenes down to the bed itself.

This is the Best DIY (rear bar only) that I have found.
Thoughts on this DIY?

Spring creek makes a rack that rides on the bed rails that works well with their suction cup setup. It clamps on.

The width is going to be close. If you have the two canoes with you, lay them side by side and mark on the garage floor straight lines to make sure the canoes are straight. Then measure the width between the outer gunwales of the canoes and see where you're at. For me, we needed 72" of rack to hold 2 MN II's at their widest points.

I did some calcs in CAD and it didn't look like a 58" would be good for two, even if you cheat it a bit by staggering, one forward of the other so the midsections are not aligned. I like the functionality of the Goalpost but don't like that you have to buy it way a useless 58" bar, plus if you buy it and want a longer bar you will have drill holes. I also don't like that the tailgate can't come down and I also wish it was collapsible. I ended up making my own that fit all these needs, technically a DIY but would be hard for the avg person to replicate unless they have some serous tools/machines at their disposal. I now feel I have the perfect setup, I run the Thule rack on the cab with two bars, then I have my DIY rear brace, also have some bar extensions for the front racks so I don't have to have super long bars all the time, just when I'm hauling two canoes. I posted some pics of my rear rack in this thread, I should take some pics of the real thing, I had it at the fall Wingnight. As for the play in it, you are correct, all of the racks the plug into the hitch have a bit of play, if you use the support straps and go to tiedowns in the bed or off the bumper it all but goes away.

Goby & Vinnie, Thanks for the info & advice! Sadly, I do not have 2 canoes that could measure. Wouldn't you need a measurement closer to the tips of the canoes?
When I normally put my single canoe on the truck it only overhangs the tailgate by about 3 feet.

Here is a simply but accurate pic showing what you are trying to do, the three bars represent where they fall on my truck (Tacoma 4door short box) Yours will likely be different but probably not much, the front two are on the cab and the rear is representing a hitch mounted unit, bars are 60" and the canoes are shown at 36" max width, as you can see its pretty much a no go.

Great info Ragged. Good to know that the 58" bar would be of little help in securing 2 canoes. Love the CAD mock-ups. Let's see those real photos sometime!

quote vinnie: "Spring creek makes a rack that rides on the bed rails that works well with their suction cup setup. It clamps on "

Vinnie, which model were you referring to? link?

because the typical width of the canoe is 36 inches at its widest point ( where it is not supported by bars, but still is important) you need at least 72 inches. We have a pair of 78 inch wide bars that work well.

Your only alternative with a shorter bar is to lap one canoe over the other and tie well. There will be abrasion unless you put pipe insulation on the gunwale of the top canoe.

raggeds CAD is my experience too.

quote halvorsonchristopher: "

quote vinnie: "Spring creek makes a rack that rides on the bed rails that works well with their suction cup setup. It clamps on "

Vinnie, which model were you referring to? link?"

Call Chuck... He has about any type of set up you can throw at him. He has a goal post design with straps to stabilize it. His truck racks can come as a clamp on or the rails as Vinnie mentioned.

I got mine from piragis northwoods company catalog. It cost 299.00 and it's made by spring creek. It's well worth the cost. I also drilled one hole in my truck rails and the rack, so i could bolt mine on and clamp it, just for that extra security for the long trips.

The Spring Creek suction cup rack. This rack has hauled two canoes to Atikokan and back (1200 miles round trip) with nary a problem. I can recommend it without hesitation. You'll note that the straps go through the front doors and the back vent windows. This is not a problem with headroom at all.






In the meantime, with no luggage rack on my van, my Yakima rack with 78" bar sits in storage. That system is still better, but the suction cup rack works like a charm.

One of my favorite canoe related pieces of gear is my now 13 year old double canoe rack. It was "designed" by one of my paddling friends when we had a last minute change and needed to haul two canoes on my roof rack.
He went in his garage and came out with a pair of two by fours, complete with four U-joints he pulled out of a drawer. It took us a couple of minutes to use the U-joints to attach the wood to the roof rack.
I have used those wood racks for 13 years, usually 3 times a year to head to the Q. I figure they have several years of life left.
Best money I never spent!

quote yellowcanoe: "because the typical width of the canoe is 36 inches at its widest point ( where it is not supported by bars, but still is important) you need at least 72 inches. We have a pair of 78 inch wide bars that work well.
raggeds CAD is my experience too."

So based on the points you made above, you would assume that Thule 500 Xsporter would not be wide enough..?
I see it listed at 71" and 72", depending where you look. There is one currently listed on CL for a fair price.

quote halvorsonchristopher:
So based on the points you made above, you would assume that Thule 500 Xsporter would not be wide enough..?
I see it listed at 71" and 72", depending where you look. There is one currently listed on CL for a fair price."

I think that would be very tight, because you still need an inch or so on each side for the straps, so almost figure on 38" for most and you would HAVE to cheat them a little and run a bar over the cab or one out the back.



This pic shows two 72" bars with a 5 foot spread between bars, canoes are 17 footer with a 36" max width. Is your bed a 5 or 6 foot? Either way you can see they will have to be cheated to the front/back a bit and you will likely want a cross bar of sorts on the cab as close to 8ft will be hanging off.


Your other option is to just buy the Xsporter and somehow lash longer bars to it, could be Thule bars, could be steel tubes you buy or even 2X4's. Wrap them with some ratchet straps to hold them together, u-bolts or even a bunch of stainless hose clamps. It wont be pretty but it will work. 80" bars would work great, little extra room in the center and 3" on either side. You could get two 80" bars, 1.5" X .75" 11ga bars cut at Discount steel for $27 each, so about half of what Thule bars cost, but the Thule bars are rubber coated which is nice. I used 78" Thule bars to build my hitch rack.



80" bars

quote GraniteCliffs: "One of my favorite canoe related pieces of gear is my now 13 year old double canoe rack. It was "designed" by one of my paddling friends when we had a last minute change and needed to haul two canoes on my roof rack.
He went in his garage and came out with a pair of two by fours, complete with four U-joints he pulled out of a drawer. It took us a couple of minutes to use the U-joints to attach the wood to the roof rack.
I have used those wood racks for 13 years, usually 3 times a year to head to the Q. I figure they have several years of life left.
Best money I never spent!"

Before we got longer bars we had a very similar setup. We included angled pieces of 2x4 on the edges that held the canoes in place and made sure they were in the proper place on the racks.

This solution could work on the goalpost carrier as well btw.

1. I frequently carry two canoes (sometimes three canoes or two canoes and a yak or..........) on my rack. If you think you'll ever want to carry two boats just go ahead and get 78 inch bars now. I promise you'll be glad you did. With most Yakima systems the cross bars are sold separately so you can get whatever size you want, but even if they aren't sold separately in my experience you can simply upgrade to longer cross bars for a slight bump in price.

2. I've tried the goal post plus front cross bar system before and didn't like it due to capacity constraints and play in the back. I'm sure there are ways to reduce or eliminate the play but I never could. I never lost a boat because of it but it always bothered me. I also didn't like losing the tailgate functionality whenever I had a boat loaded which it sounds like you've considered. I'll go ahead and tell you it's a pain. :)

3. Eight years ago Mrs. Deuce convinced me try out an Expedition with the understanding I could trade back into a pickup if I wanted. It was a sea change for me and I've never looked back. That said, if I had a pickup today I would spend the money once to install the Yakima Outdoorsman with 78 inch (or possibly longer) bars and be done with it. Once again, if you do that I promise you'll be glad you did.

My .02. Happy hunting!

Won't be a lengthy post, battling a virus right now. But I've used the Yakima Outdoorsman for 9 years, if I'm figuring correct? It's been through 3 trucks (I drive about 35K miles a year) and I live on an un-maintained gravel road, so it's been through some abuse. I also paddle most weeks of the year. Works very well. A friend has had one longer than I. Here's a few pics of mine.

That DIY rack that you posted looks a bit complicated. Must have been designed by an engineer. It's pretty quick, easy, and cheap to weld a few pieces of tubular steel together and fabricate your own racks.

quote walleye_hunter: "That DIY rack that you posted looks a bit complicated. Must have been designed by an engineer. It's pretty quick, easy, and cheap to weld a few pieces of tubular steel together and fabricate your own racks."

I wish I could weld. I have a friend what would do it for me, but I'm trying to figure this one out on my own... for now.

I started building something this evening, and will finish tomorrow.
-Going to combine it with the Spring Creek's - Suction Cup Rack which I will use for the front rack. If this does not work out... I will be out $20 for lumber and will be listing the Spring Creek mount in the forsale ads.

If I decide to throw some money down, it will be for the Yakima Outdoorsman. $490 for fron & back racks with 78" bars.
I know that it would get used a lot, for heading up north and for work.

The problem with the homebuild, is that I do not forsee it being a good-look to leave on the Work-Truck.... might look a little Bo-Dunk for Richie-Richville (aka newbuild area - West Metro).

Thanks everyone for such solid responses to a somewhat boring topic.

quote walleye_hunter: "That DIY rack that you posted looks a bit complicated. Must have been designed by an engineer. It's pretty quick, easy, and cheap to weld a few pieces of tubular steel together and fabricate your own racks."

i have taken a few things from that DIY rack, but not others. I'm using the concept of anchoring the mount into the truck bed rails, but not the steel bar aspect.
I'm post some pictures afterwards. Don't expect too much!

quote ozarkpaddler: "Won't be a lengthy post, battling a virus right now. But I've used the Yakima Outdoorsman for 9 years, if I'm figuring correct? It's been through 3 trucks (I drive about 35K miles a year) and I live on an un-maintained gravel road, so it's been through some abuse. I also paddle most weeks of the year. Works very well. A friend has had one longer than I. Here's a few pics of mine.
"

Thanks for the great endorsement. It's just what I was looking for.

quote DeuceCoop: "1. I frequently carry two canoes (sometimes three canoes or two canoes and a yak or..........
2. I also didn't like losing the tailgate functionality whenever I had a boat loaded which it sounds like you've considered. I'll go ahead and tell you it's a pain. :)
3. Yakima Outdoorsman with 78 inch (or possibly longer) bars and be done with it. Once again, if you do that I promise you'll be glad you did. My .02. Happy hunting!"

Seriously.. Thanks for the great response. You covered it all. I'm grateful that you went through all the woes, so someoen like me doesn't have too... ha :)

quote Ragged: "

quote halvorsonchristopher:
So based on the points you made above, you would assume that Thule 500 Xsporter would not be wide enough..?
I see it listed at 71" and 72", depending where you look. There is one currently listed on CL for a fair price."

I think that would be very tight, because you still need an inch or so on each side for the straps, so almost figure on 38" for most and you would HAVE to cheat them a little and run a bar over the cab or one out the back.



This pic shows two 72" bars with a 5 foot spread between bars, canoes are 17 footer with a 36" max width. Is your bed a 5 or 6 foot? Either way you can see they will have to be cheated to the front/back a bit and you will likely want a cross bar of sorts on the cab as close to 8ft will be hanging off.



Your other option is to just buy the Xsporter and somehow lash longer bars to it, could be Thule bars, could be steel tubes you buy or even 2X4's. Wrap them with some ratchet straps to hold them together, u-bolts or even a bunch of stainless hose clamps. It wont be pretty but it will work. 80" bars would work great, little extra room in the center and 3" on either side. You could get two 80" bars, 1.5" X .75" 11ga bars cut at Discount steel for $27 each, so about half of what Thule bars cost, but the Thule bars are rubber coated which is nice. I used 78" Thule bars to build my hitch rack.


80" bars"

I just read this post again, and realized the work you put into it. I wish I had your CAD skills, it would save me some of the trial & error, that I have become accustomed to .

quote Jackfish: "The Spring Creek suction cup rack. This rack has hauled two canoes to Atikokan and back (1200 miles round trip) with nary a problem. I can recommend it without hesitation. You'll note that the straps go through the front doors and the back vent windows. This is not a problem with headroom at all.

In the meantime, with no luggage rack on my van, my Yakima rack with 78" bar sits in storage. That system is still better, but the suction cup rack works like a charm."

Your Yakima rack... wouldn't happen to be the Outdoorsman 300 would it? If you are interested in getting it out of storage, I may have a new home for it!