So, I'm going to be introducing a bottom bouncer to my arsenal of tackle for some rocky lakes. The pre-made spinner rigs I have all have a leader length of about 3 feet. With my concern being the possible "spook" factor, will this provide enough distance between the bottom bouncer and the spinner/hook?

I should preface this by saying that I have no experience with using bottom bouncers.

I have used walking sinkers in place of the bottom bouncer with a similar length to the spinner and have not noticed any issues. If you're worried about it, you could always either tie a longer rig, or tie in an additional leader with a swivel in between.

Back when they still allowed live bait in Q, I used to bring bottom bouncers, my own hand-made crawler harnesses and some crawlers to go with them. I believe my crawler harnesses were tied on about 6' of line with the idea that I could always shorten the line if I needed to. I don't think I ever did. Doesn't mean that 3' lengths wouldn't work, but that might be a tad short.

Most of the crawler harness I use have 4 foot leaders. I have never used a longer one so can't help you there.

In ultra clear water you might want a longer snell but in most lakes, a standard 3'-4' snell works great. I think spinners take advantage of the fish's lateral line and the fish keys in on the thump of the blade and only uses it's vision when it is in very close.

I almost always go with a 2 1/2 to 3 ft snell with my floating worm harnesses in the stained waters of Quetico that I fish.

I used to go with a longer 4 to 6 ft snell but over the years I have shortened it up. I just go with what works and a shorter snell using a 1/2 oz. Lindy slip sinker in < 20 ft water using braided line has been the ticket for me. Between 20 and 30 ft water I use 3/4 oz. weight. I have had slightly better luck with Lindy slip sinkers when using floating worm spinner harnesses and using bottom bouncers with floating or neutrally buoyant plastic lures like floating rapalas.

I usually use single hook harnesses with Gulp or Powerbait leeches or minnows and Gulp night crawlers on double hook harnesses.

Why not tie a bunch of your own rigs and try various lengths until you figure out what the fish want? Many stores including Cabela's have all the components you'll need (hooks, clevises, beads, and spinner blades). You'll save money per harness and it's a rush catching fish on a lure of your own design. With a quick youtube search you can see that anyone can easily learn the snell knot and design their own.

Kayak Rookie,

I would guess that there are some people with more knowledge on this set up, but they will be few and far between as i have been using this style as my "go to" for many many years.

When i first started using them, i had the same concern. Over the years, and i really cant answer "why" i have forgotten this fear. I just know it doesnt spook the fish. Why? i dont know....they are fish and they are dumb? I have caught fish on leaders from 1 foot to MANY feet behind a bottom bouncer. You would think that they would spook the fish...they do not.

The length of your leader is important still, but should have nothing to do with "spook" factor. More so, worry about snagging and rod length. The longer your pole, the longer you can make your leader and still comfortably fight and land a fish at the boat. However, the longer you make the leader, the less efective the "bouncer" will be at keeping you from snagging the rig/spinner/floats/hooks/blades/kitchen sink that you have tied on the business end. Also, if you are using "float beads" you can use a bit longer leader and they will help keep the lure up... Drift/trolling speed has more to do with this than anything.

I tie my own rigs. I used to think, as one other poster suggested, 'make it longer and cut it down if needed' However i stopped that right away, as i tie on a special hoop knot on the end of each pre-made rig leader and i dont want to have to cut that off and try and tie it again while on the water. So, i make them pre-sized, before i go. If you are making them yourself, they are exteremly cheap to make. The only customization i do on the water to the home-made rigs, is all of them have quick change blade holders, so i can change the blade size or color or remove the blade all together while fishing, and if i am wanting a 2 hook or 1 hook rig, and im running short, i may cut off the extra 1 or 2 hooks i have tied on. I tend to tie most of my rigs as crawler harnesses first (3 or 4 hook) and then cut them down for 2 hook leech or minnow rigs or 1 hook minnow rigs. Its easy to cut off un needed hooks, not so easy to add hooks.

Hope that helps.

-Chad

There's a lot of great info here...I really appreciate it!

Sirlips

I used to bring in a whole flat of night crawlers to Quetico years ago before the live bait ban and walleye catching for numbers and size was crazy awesome with Lindy rigged floating worm harnesses.

Since I switched Gulp crawlers and minnows and leeches my size and catch numbers have been reduced. Has your experience with Gulp been as good as live bait? Anything else besides Gulp that you would recommend for artificial only Quetico?

Also, I have been partial to Lindy rig slip sinkers vs. bottom bouncers for pulling spinner floating worm harnesses. Why do u like bouncers over slip sinkers when using spinner rigs?

I have another question: which guidelines do you follow for choosing the weight of the bottom bouncer? I'm guessing it comes down to depth and wind for the most part....so what depth do you use 1/4 oz? or 1/2 oz? or 1 oz?

quote kayakrookie1: "I have another question: which guidelines do you follow for choosing the weight of the bottom bouncer? I'm guessing it comes down to depth and wind for the most part....so what depth do you use 1/4 oz? or 1/2 oz? or 1 oz? "

A quick rule of thumb on bottom bouncer weight is 1 oz for every 10 feet of water depth.