Boundary Waters Quetico Forum :: Fishing Forum :: Fishing Plastic Worms
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Huselius |
I've been toying with making my own lures so I can have braided line inside it and maybe to save on cost when the plastic doesn't last, but I only see ideas for how to put a single hook in (Texas, Carolina, Wacky)... I've never really used them, but from my experience, I've gotten a large percentage of my fish from the tail hook and I'd hate to lose those fish. I'm currently trying to make a lure by running a long needle and line through a Trick worm and attaching hooks from there, but I probably (certainly) won't get as much action on the lure. Does anyone have any thoughts, assurances of the standard rigs, comparisons between 3 hook and 1 hook setups, or advice on making the lure? I love them and they even worked great last year in the BW - I'm just trying to see what my options are. It would be a treat to be able to catch fish on my own creation and replace the parts as needed. |
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bassnut |
Creme Scoundrel was the first "plastic worm", rigged with 2 or 3 hooks. Reeling steady or stop-n-go are proven techniques. This lure works because it is erratic(not mechanical) in movement, gives off very few negative clues, and in general looks like something a predator fish eats(minnow, salamander, snake, worm). It is worked in the first few feet of the water column, so that usually fish are looking up at the lure, a sillouette, so that exact identification by the fish is difficult, and feeding "up" is natural(bad english!). And they come in cool polka dot jimihendrixpurplehazeykinda...colors. the plastic is first generation, and is actually kinda stiff. If the worm tears, super glue can save the day. Also, you might try websites that sell tackle making things, there are devices that "melt" the plastic, and the worm can be "repaired". Janscraft, Tackle Warehouse are a few. The rigging line is fairly tough, the hooks are kinda small. good luck on improving, i.e., Dyneema leader, stronger hooks. It is possible, just be patient. It would be nice if Creme got the idea!! I see a potential problem in your rigging. If you are using Dyneema(braid), you are basically using line with no stretch, no cushion. Couple that with a rod that is stiff, and the only "give" is in your hooks and leader, a place you cannot control. Lighten up your rod(ML or M), or go back to mono. Also, since the hooks are generally kinda small(hence weak), you have to make allowances in your total rigging. Weakest links in setup:small hooks and leader. Making your own? worms tear-get destroyed easy...is it worth it? Good luck!! |
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Basspro69 |
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PaddleAway |
Since you can't cover as much territory with plastics, we'll use other, active baits to search out & find fish. Once we find one, & think there may be more, we'll swap over to plastics & slow down the pace. This has worked wonders at times when the bass are schooled up. As for the what, I'll use Berkeley Power Worms & others, but 95% of the time you'll find a wacky-rigged 6" Gulp sinking worm on the end of my hook. I've had great success with it over the years all over the state, & often when bass would bite on nothing else. Good luck! |
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The Great Outdoors |
You'll need to add a spinner or float on the rig in Minnesota to make it an artificial lure, because it has over 1 hook. |
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Bushwacker |
They mold it with an "S" bend and it spirals when you retrieve it. I like the three hooks weedless version. Put a split shot a foot up the line. Cast it into the slopiest area you can find; heavy weeds, timber and rock fields. Rell, let it drop a little reel etc. back to the canoe. They often hit on the drop. Pike love them too so bring some extras because a pike will chew it. You need a quality barrel swivel to prevent line twist. Bass can't resist them. |
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bassnut |
cheap...catch fish good |